Monday, Aug. 25, 2003 - 7:24 p.m.
Lake Titicaca and the islands...part 1
The floating islands of Uros are amazing because they are made of buyant reeds (called totora) and native people live on them. The reeds that grow here are used to make the islands, the houses, the insides can even be eaten! Walking around on the islands was like walking in a bog.
The islands are also a tourist trap, so many gringos were walking around, looking at the local people sitting in front of their houses, their artwork spread out before them on the reeds or on small reed tables. I suddenly felt ackward, out of place and embarressed to be gaping at them, their homes and their way of life, as if they were a circus act. I wanted to connect with them and talk with them, but there wasn't time.
We went to one more floating island, some are bigger than others, traveling to the second island by reed boat. We also learned that the islands are achored down. Five times a year the people put another layer of reeds on the island (the bottom layer slowly rots away). They also lift the houses up to add the reed layer and then set it down again! The island reeds are about 3 to 5 feet deep. The Uros people live on the islands, their origin is a mystery, but they are originally from Bolivia. Now the Uros people have intermixed with other cultures, there are no pure Uros people left.
Then we went to Amantani island, it was a long boat ride (provided, the boat didn't cruise very fast). We puttered along between the free floating reeds. The sky was clear, the air is a little thin and the sun sparkled on the lake. It was cool to sit on the top deck, wind blowing, looking out across the lake that seems like a sea (in fact, it is a remant of an ancient inland sea), it is so big you can't sea the other side. It was very hot and stuffy to sit inside the boat. About 4 hours later we arrived at the (solid land) island. There's about 25 people on our tour (with an English/Spanish speaking guide). Most seem to be European. I also met an older Swiss/American woman and a couple (Chris and Ally) from New Zealand who are traveling around the world in 2.5 years (working as they travel).
Once we arrived on the island, we were greeted by many indigenous people, all wearing similar clothing. A row of woman all wearing a white top with colorful embroidery, a solid colored skirt of bright colors; rich greens, bright reds, turquoise, some orange, bright pink or a vibrant blue. Also they donned a black shawl that they wore over their heads, framing their face, with more colorful embroidery and black, simple sandals. The three of us were soon greeted by a friendly local woman, Teodocia, in a rich green skirt. We followed her to her house, also nearby were many others following their host to the homestead. Slowly, steadily, the path went upwards, the blue lake below us. We stopped several times to catch our breath. The lady talked to us while she constantly knitted a colorful hat in her hands. I noticed many other woman were also kitting some kind of textile as well. We learned Teodocia hs two children, a boy (Daniel, 8) and a cute little girl (Luz Mery, 4). Daniel has to walk 1 hour to school (one way) every day. We met him later as we ate lunch in their simple one room kitchen/dining room.
