Sunday, Sept. 7, 2003 - 9:16 p.m.
At the Copacabana
Arranged a bus to Copacabana, across the Bolivia border, still on the shores of Lake Titicaca. On my right were 3 Japanese girls, in front of me were a French couple also going to Copacabana. The bus left Puna about 8AM, driving Southeast along the lake. We passed many sad, dusty villages, the sun was smiling down on us and dancing on the lake waters.
Had to fill out an immigration card for Bolivia. Then I found out that I needed my immigration card from Peru that I got when I crossed the border one month before. I didn't know that I needed it again, thank goodness I still had it, but it was in my big backpack in the luggage compartment below. One of the Japanese girls asked me about a few questions on the form that she didn't understand (it was in Spanish of course). I started talking with them. Two were from Osaka, one from Tokyo. They were on their way to La Paz.
After about 2 hrs we were close to the border and we stopped at a place where we could exchange our money. I knew that it was roughly 7 Bolivianos to 1 US Dollar. When I got to the counter and asked the man he said it was 2 to 1. I balked, my heart rate went up. I was wary of getting ripped off like I did when crossing the Peru-Ecuaodr border. After a moment of confusion and I was about to start arguing with the man, the guy in line behind me told me it was 2 Bolivianos to 1 Peruvian Sole. Not having caluclated what Bolivianos were to Soles, I was confused. I knew we weren't getting a favorable exhange rate. I only exchanged a small amount, enough to get me to La Paz. I looked at the strange colorful money handed to me and hoped I wasn't getting shortchanged (Thankfully, I wasn't).
Then we went to the Peruvian-Bolivian border. It was like a crazy crowded market. People were selling everything. It was very chaotic. The buses were lined up on the road, engines running, waiting to cross the border. I had to get one of the guys to open up the luggage hatch so I could get my immigration card from my bag (thank goodness I knew what pocket it was in). The bus driver was yelling because he wanted to go and I was quickly fishing through my bag, looking for the card. Finally I grabbed a stack of papers in my bag and prayed the card I needed was one of them. The driver almost took off before I had closed my bag again. Later, waiting in line at immigration, I looked through the papers I'd grabbed and fortunately found the card I needed.
When I entered Peru August 5th, the Ecuadorian immigration stamped my passport with the correct date. However, when I got to the Peruvian immigration, I later discovered they stamped it the 5th of June. Foreigners typically are given a 90 day entry stamp into Peru. Ross, James and I didn't notice the error until we were in Tumbes, maybe 20 Km beyond immigration. At the time I didn't sweat it because I figured I would leave Peru before the 5th of Sept. However, as events unfolded, it turned out that I left Peru on the 6th. I hoped I wouldn't have any problems at immigration. "Judgement Day" had arrived.
When it was my turn to go into the office, the man there looked at my passport and said (in Spanish) "There's a problem". Then he looked at me and asked (in Spanish) "Do you speak Spanish?" and I answered "A little". I pointed to the Ecuadorian stamp and said "I entered Peru on the 5th of August. This is correct." Then I pointed to the Peruvian stamp and said "This is not correct. I had only one month in Peru." He scrutinized my passport for what felt like a long time. Finally he said "Are you sure?" and I said with confidence "Yes." Then he took a pen and changed the Peruvian date from June to Aug, then stamped my passport. I was very relieved.
Then I crossed the border, walking, with the Japanese girls. We then went to the Bolivian immmigration, got our passports stamped and returned to the bus, now on the Bolivian side. This border crossing was a lot more efficient than the Ecuadorian-Peruvian one for sure! Once back on board the bus, one of the men told us to change our watches one hour ahead because Bolivia is one hour ahead of Peru. Then we continued on to Copacabana, only about another 15 min away.
Copacabana is a nice little touristy town on the shores of Lake Titicaca. It was about mid-day and soon I found a hostal to stay at. I was given the Matrimonial Room, a tiny room with a double bed, for only 10 Bolivianos. Less than $1.50! (If I was on my honeymoon, I can tell ya, I would've have stayed there! But it was sufficient for what I needed then).
I settled in, checked out the rooftop view of the beach and lakeshore down below, very nice. I chatted briefly with some other travelers and debated about whether to take a half day tour that afternoon for the nearby Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) or not. I was really tired and hungry, but I thought about the fact that I wanted to go on to La Paz the next day. I laid down on the bed in my room and decided I was too tired and I'd go tomorrow. I decided to take a nap for about an hour, but I was so tired that I slept for about 4.
In Copacabana there is a strange custom of blessing vehicules at the main cathedral, which is an interesting construction with Moorish influence. The blessing is called the "Benediciones de Movilidades". It's performed twice a day at 10AM and 2:30pm. I wanted to se it, but again, would have to wait until tomorrow. I got out of bed about 5pm. I knew I needed to arrange a tour to the island for the next day and buy my bus ticket to La Paz. I went to a nearby travel agent kiosk off the main square and did both. The half day tour started at 8:30AM the next day. The boad would take me to one end of the island and I would have an hour and 45 min to explore. I told the lady I didn't want to do a lot of walking, since I was recuperating from the Inca Trail.
Then I went to the cathedral, built from 1605-1820 (Taking many years to complete construction is very common in poorer countries!). I went inside and sat on a wooden bench looking at (yet another) ornate gold altar with figures of saints. Then I went outside and to the right to find the Capilla de Velas (Candle Chapel) that my guide book recommended. It was a long dark corridor only lit by a few candles. At the end was a small saintly figure in a lit glass case. It was kind of spooky being the only person inside. I could tell that the black walls and tables were at times lined with thousands of candles, the floor was covered in wax drippings. I didn't stay long.
The sun was starting to set and I wanted to see it on the beach. To my right was the large hill (Cerro Calvario) with a sort of religious stone structure at the top representing the stations of the cross. The guide book said it was a 30 min climb, nice to see the sunset from up there. But I quickly dismissed the idea. It would've been nice, but I wasn't going alone and then having to return in the dark.
So I went to the beach, the lakeshore and walked around. I saw a minivan all decorated on the front, found out it had been ceremonially blessed. It was nice to walk along the shore, even though the beach wasn't all that fantasic, mostly small stones and hardly any sand, a very narrow strip between the concrete walkway and the water. There were hardly any gringos, almost all locals. No one bothered me. No one tried to sell me anything or shine my shoes. It was nice and peaceful, listening and watching the locals bring their boats to shore, children and dogs playing, running about.
Then, as I walked back the way I'd come, I suddenly saw Maria and David, the Spanish/Irish couple in our Inca Trail group. I knew they had left for Bolivia but didn't know they were in Copacabana. I talked with them for awhile as the sun slowly slipped below the waters, it was a beautiful sunset. David and Maria had plans to visit eh Isla del Sol all the day the next day, where I was only going for half a day. they also said they had talked to the Swiss girls, Judith and Crystal and might be meeting up with them. We decided to meet up in La Paz the next couple of days. Then I went to go have something to eat.
